Soroptimist International Peace Tour to Gallipoli 2005,

Sponsored by the Five Soroptimist Clubs of Izmir,

Goztepe, Alsancak, Izmir, Karsiyaka and Kordon.

I first became aware of this wonderful project when I read the February 2005 Soroptimist International South West Pacific Newsletter.  I had just returned home from hospital, following extensive ankle surgery and saw the exciting invitation. I expressed my interest via email, giving reasons why I could be considered as a suitable participant.  Three weeks later I had permission from my surgeon and a very welcoming letter to say “they would love to have me as part of the “love and friendship tour” between April 20 to 27, 2005.  As details unravelled we became more aquainted with each other;  Bergun Kardes, Turkish Union International Goodwill and Understanding Co-Ordinator; and Ismet Tekin, Turkish Union Program Co-Ordinator kept us up to date with information and arrangements.  It was a privilege to receive their emails!  These women expressed deep love and concern for us travelling from the “other side of the world” to be with them. 

On arrival in Izmir I soon realised that all the women shared the same genuineness and concern for each of us.  I was aware that Australian and New Zealand Soroptimists were to be participants but it was a great pleasure to meet two “friendship link” Soroptimists from Britain, Grange on Sands.  The ten participants shared an amazing week or so with these extremely proud, articulate, talented, welcoming women.  As an Australian, Victorian, Melbourne, Soroptimist I had not previously witnessed Clubs working together to achieve such success.  On our visit to Egetem, (which I had heard of through SI Magazines and Conferences) it showed the deep commitment of working together at such a “grass roots level” to achieve love and success in this school encompassing all SI Program areas: Human Rights and Understanding, Status of Women, Education, Health.  Money raised was more than matched by Government funds and commendations.  Past President Ayla Selcuk of SI Europe and member of SI Alsancak, had delight in showing us ‘her baby’ that she has been involved with since inception in 1990.  The teachers and students welcomed us and proudly displayed their talents.

Of course we enjoyed sightseeing and were most fortunate to have Evin Ezeli McCain, a Soroptimist and professional tour guide.  She spent two days tutoring us about the very rich Turkish history, architecture and religions from BC to 2005.  We were fortunate to visit the attractive Museum in Izmir before venturing to Ephesus.  This gave us an exciting overview of a magnificent ancient city.  On that day we also visit the Agora in the downtown Izmir.  To meet and walk with the archeologist supervising the excavation was what happens in dreams!  I thought how wonderful to be an archeologist in Izmir, a short walk and there is your life’s work! It was also amazing to wander through the lower gates past a modern tiered carpark into an ancient bazaar.

It was a pleasure to be once again in her company at Bergun’s Friendship Dinner and share the generousity of all the Izmir Soroptimists

Our day at the Virgin Mary House and Ephesus provided me with memories for a lifetime.  It was exquisite, as was Evin’s interpretation of its evolution to present day.  We thanked her dearly for such an enriching experience. 

This magnificent day ended as dinner guests of the Izmir Governor’s wife, Meral Goksu. We experienced sumptuous hospitality and the joys of children enjoying traditional dancing.  It was International Children’s Day eve, and activities for children were in full swing.  We also learned of the rich talents of SI Izmir members from their eloquent speeches to operatic singing and piano solos.  It was truly a delight.  The next day was our trip to Gallipoli.  It was lovely to share these evenings with our Club hostesses as well as our “homestay” hostesses.

Forty seven people boarded our bus for Gallipoli. We had a new driver and guide,  Ayse Baykan was not a Soroptimist but as schoolgirl her teacher was Bergun Kardes; as was the same for many of the vibrant SI members!  She took us to Pergamon en route to Gallipoli and sensitively shared its advanced medical/psychotherapeutic history. On our journey local towns held massed bands and parades of children celebrating International Children’s Day.  Family group picnics were flourishing.

Crossing the Dardanelles by ferry was adding to the excitement, an Australian Reuter’s journalist took great interest in our “Peace Tour” and circulated press releases throughout the world, we suspected it wouldn’t make Australian newspapers!  Turkish newspapers were kinder.

On the bus at Gallipoli, Ayse read Mustafa Kemal Ataturk’s 1934 verse:

“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives…!

You are now lying in the soul of a friendly country, therefore

rest in peace.

There is no difference between

the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they

 lie side by side here is this country of ours…

You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away

countries, wipe away your tears.  Your sons are now

lying in our bosom and are in peace.  After having

lost their lives on this land they have become

our sons as well.”

The most special day for me was on Anzac eve, after arriving at Anzac Cove, taking in the immense peace and tranquility of this beautiful peninsula National Park; and visiting the different countries war graves.  Visions which will stay forever are the lone piper on the beach at Helles cemetery, and the Lone Pine Cemetery, which is ingrained into the Australian psyche.  Thoughtful gestures such as the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce, encouraging us to write on their stamped complimentary postcards to our friends ‘back home’.  The entire 57^th Regiment lay in the Turkish cemetery was heart wrenching for us all.  The respect between different nationalities and cultures visiting this emotional area, the moving bronze statues, the immensity of the memorials will never leave my memory.  I now have insight into the troubled minds of the veterans I nursed when I was an eighteen years old!

That night we were bus number 154 out of an estimated 650 buses.  Following a three kilometre walk, security check and tagging, our complimentary programs in hand, we were free to deposit ourselves where we could find an area to sit.  To experience the Dawn Service at Anzac Cove was something very special but also something that probably won’t be repeated by masses of 20,000 plus people.  The night was blessed by a full moon and a sparkling HMAS Anzac in the strait, we sat on the road at 10pm.  It got colder by the minute, even though we were well rugged up!  The Dawn Service began at 5 a.m. we sat ‘on the road’ till 9 a.m., resting and talking with our hostesses and other visitors.  On the “Spinx”, Turkish and Australian people sat side by side displaying their Countries’ flags.  There was order in the chaos and no one was lost.  On completion of the Dawn Service at Anzac Cove we waited for buses to transport us to Lone Pine area, for a second service.  Some of us stayed on the bus and listened to the Beating of the Retreat in the distance, following the Order of Service in our Programs, these programs were generously provided by our Government.  Our Turkish friends were delighted when they saw Prince Charles drive along the road where we were parked!  Following the Lone Pine Service was the Turkish Cemetery Service, then Chunuk Bair for the New Zealand Service and finally the service at the British Monument. 

The numbers of casualties for the allies who died was 44,092, wounded 96,937, total  141,029.  For the Turks it was nearly double, 86,692 died, 164,617 wounded, total 251,309.

Some members participated in two of the services.  It was a long day and we did not leave Gallipoli until around 3 p.m.  I remember lying in my bed at 4 p.m., to catch a couple of hour sleep before dinner, then back to bed!

Nilgun Ozler, the Turkish Union President, said farewell to us as she would not be with us the next day.  She referred to the five Izmir Clubs as ‘the locomotive that drove SI Turkey’.  How apt were her words.  It was a shame she was not to witness the Plenary Session that followed at Canakkale the next morning

Up bright and early for our 7.30 am departure, our Turkish ‘sisters’ beautifully groomed in jackets and jewels, we knew we were in for another special day.

After our short ferry ride we were walking the streets of Canakkale, witnessing the Trojan horse that was used on the film set, and on to a special meeting room where our plenary session was to follow.  Peace dolls, and their significance were hand made and displayed by our hostesses, of course we couldn’t leave without buying their wares.

Following Bergun’s welcome, we were introduced to the talented Prof. Dr. Ahmet Mete Tuncoku, and we soon realized why he was so important to our ‘sisters’!   Nuket Izmiroglu began by outlining the process for the Peace Tour Women Building Peace Project.  Huray Boke explained her very personal reason for being involved in inviting us to share the Gallipoli campaign.  Barbara Boston, SI President Elect for the Region of New South Wales, gave a thoroughly researched paper on the Australian perspective of Gallipoli 1915-2005; then the Professor captured all the salient points and endeared us with his interest in the Gallipoli Campaign along his life’s journey.  We sang of “Peace”, with thanks to our British ‘sisters’, and were in awe of the achievements of this journey and that it was soon to end.

Let there be peace on earth and let it begin with me

Let there be peace on earth, the peace that is meant to be

For God is our Father, brothers and sisters are we

Let me walk with my brother in perfect harmony.

Let there be peace on earth, let this be the moment now,

Let there be peace on earth, let this be my solemn vow,

To live each moment, and love each moment in perfect harmony,

Let there be peace on earth and let it begin with me.

We vowed to meet at the International Convention in Glasgow 2007 and I believe each participant will make a concerted effort to meet their vow.

After lunch, some English Soroptimists shopping for Turkish delight, and our ‘sisters’ changing out of their jackets, we were on the bus again, on the road to Troy.  Another perfect crisp spring day, we were able to see across the Dardanelles, to the immense Turkish monument guarding the straits and the myriad of freighters moving north and south.  We were driving around Mount Iliad, that was fascinating enough for me, more history to come at Troy, and what a glorious place it was; to the east were the silted fertile plains, then the Aegean Sea.

It was good to be nearing Izmir for our final sleep, but sad that this should all end.

I will never forget the warmth and genuineness of all participants and can only congratulate our hostesses on a magnificent effort and event, and that “it all came true’!

Canakkale which was “determined to be the landscape for the theme “Women Building Peace” as far as its broad and multi-cultural aspect from Troy to Canakkale Wars and its very interesting and universal historical mission such as the testimony to the rarest wars for the sake of a woman is considered”.

“The main purpose is to carry Canakkale, which is well known up to now for its war legends, to the agenda of the world as a symbol of peace.  Therefore, the target of the project was(sic) organizing and International Peace Symposium at Canakkale in co-operation with the Canakkale 18 Mart University,” namely its founder and president Prof. Dr. Ahmet Mete Tuncoku  who is head of “Ataturk and Battle of Dardanelles Research Centre”.  Gallipoli (Canakkale) Peace Project 2004-2005.

I commend the five Soroptimist International Clubs of Izmir and their immense efforts to “Women Building Peace”.  It is a reality.

Sue Whitehead, participant from SI Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia.